Amy Krupski
Cruise News

South America, 2007-2008

Mediterranean & Asia, 2010 - 2011

October 14:  Rome   • November 14:   Ephesus   • December 1:  Suez Canal    • December 9:  Singapore
•  December 12:  Mumbai    • December 19:  Phuket    • December 25:   at sea on Christmas Day

Asia & Orient, 2010 - 2011

Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 6:10 PM
From: Amy Krupski <harpmusic@redshift.com>
Subject: Going Back on Cruise Ship

Dear Friends,

Well, life can change in the blink of an eye!  I was, yet again, proposed an offer I could not refuse.

Almost one year from the time I boarded Azamara Journey last October, I have been offered a last minute contract to play harp on Azamara Quest, sister ship to Journey.  After about 6 weeks in the Mediterranean, where I will re-visit ports & see new ones, Quest sails for Asia. 

Starting in Alexandria & through the Suez Canal, we make our way to Dubai, India, Thailand, Singapore, Cambodia, Vietnam, China, Japan & So. Korea.

My family has been beyond generous in allowing me to go out again and I'm hopeful I will be able to repay them through the ship's 'friend & family' discount program and they will embark at a preferred destination.

I will miss singing with the symphony chorus, especially during the holidays, Soup 'n Sing, Talespinners, MWF stretch class, knitters group, Mty harpers & Harpers Hall annual February retreat. Thanks for keeping me on your email list.  Hearing about all of you through the group emails keeps me in the loop & conected to the best folks on the planet, and gives me the opportunity to 'reply' with updates on my journey.

And a special thanks to Bruce Belknap who keeps my website updated.. (I will do a better job of journaling this time around, Bruce.)

Have a wonderful & blessed Holiday Season. I will be in Southeast Asia on Christmas & New Years.

Love & blessings,
Amy K.

P.S. You can access schedules of both the Azamara ships at AzamaraClubCruises.com.


Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 02:29:34 -0800
Subject: Cruise News
From: harpmusic@redshift.com

Hi Bruce,

Here's my Cruise News through Nov. 13th. More coming soon!

Thanks for letting me know you have received this so it will be safe for me to delete from the ship's computer.

Thanks again, Amy


OFF TO ROME
October 14--16, 2010

The direct flight from L.A. to Rome went smoothly and without a hitch. Alitalia airlines provided good food and complimentary wine. I felt lucky I slept for at least a few hours during the 12 hour flight. I left Monterey early Thursday morning and arrived in Rome on Friday the 15th at noon. Having flown into the same airport and booked at the same hotel near the airport in ’09, I knew my way around and decided to make use of the afternoon daylight hours. After checking into the Hilton Gardens Inn around 2 pm, I took the shuttle back to the airport, boarded the train, a good 45 minutes from the city, then the underground. When I climbed the stairs from the subway, looking up, the Coliseum lay straight ahead. A nice surprise and quite a sight!

The throngs of tourists were greeted by gladiators decked out in costumes, waving their swords and offering photo shoots or fabulous tours. I had no desire to go inside the Coliseum to see where the slaves rarely escaped but was awe struck by the architectural wonder and mingled with 2 or 3 tour groups on the grounds outside, picking up bits and pieces of history. I then boarded a city bus and saw Piazza San Pietro & St. Peters Basilica before getting back on the subway. I was surprised at the softness of Rome and found the locals very helpful in pointing me in the right direction as I maneuvered my way through the subway and train systems. I got the shuttle back to my hotel from the airport just after dark and in time for dinner.

The next morning, Saturday, October 16. twenty or so Azamara crew members took the 1 & 1/2 hour ride to the port at Civitavecchia to board the ship. I was pleased to see pianist, Mark Fiore, who was coming on as bandmaster. Mark had also been bandmaster when I was on INFINITY in South America in 2008.

ROME to BARCELONA---7 night cruise

First stop after Rome was overnight in Sorrento. Located on the Bay of Naples, Sorrento is a lovely city and from here one has easy access to the Amalfi coast, the Isle of Capri, Pompeii and Herculaneum. The beauty and history of Sorrento combined with so many side trips makes it a popular destination and the ship will return here for another 2 day + overnight stay before we leave the Mediterranean.

Last year, while in Sorrento, I spent time in Pompeii and on the Isle of Capri. I was happy I had seen these places as I barely had time to get off the ship my first week aboard due to required safety and environmental training. So I look forward to revisiting Sorrento the 2 days we return. I’m adding in the following information on Sorrento taken from QUEST’s Daily Pursuits Programme.

Sorrento, Capri and these entire peninsula have been inhabited since the Stone Age. Phoenicians were the first settlers followed by the Greeks then the island passed onto Roman hands in 326 BC. At the height of the Roman Empire this area enjoyed a period of prosperity. From the second to the eighteenth century the region was often the subject of dispute, conflict, invasion, and a target for pirate attacks. Through the years, the area was taken over by both the French and the British but returned to Italian control in 1815.

Two other ports I had a chance to revisit on this, my first cruise on QUEST, were Taormina, Sicily and Valletta, Malta. Again I will include some interesting bits of information on both of these beautiful places taken from Pursuits Daily Programme.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean & has a population of approximately 5 million. Its history and outlook is not that of its modern parent but of its foreign rulers. From the Greeks who first settled the east coast in 8th Century BC, through a dazzling array of Romans, Arabs, Normans, French and Spanish, they left behind their substantial influences. Nature and history have made Sicily a land of striking contrasts. For centuries, Sicily was considered the center of the known world.. Its geographical position made the island vulnerable to attacks by foreigners but at the same time made it a meeting place of Mediterranean civilizations, a true bridge between East and West.

I especially enjoyed seeing the Greek-Roman theater in Taormina (built around the third century A.D. by the Greeks and later expanded by the Romans.) and a spectacular view of the coastline and Mt. Etna .

Malta was founded by the Knights of St. John in 1566 but had been previously ruled successively by the Phoenicians Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines & Arabs before St. John’s Order made its lasting impression.

Valletta, the capitol and administrative center of Malta is Baroque in character but also has elements of Neo-Classical with hints of modern architecture in selected areas. Valletta’s numerous monuments, 320 in all, lie within an area of 135 acres, makes it one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world. In 1980 the city of Valletta was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

The last Island, before reaching Barcelona was Menorca, the second largest of the Balearic Islands off Spain’s southeast coast. My husband and I visited nearby Majorca while passengers on a cruise ship in 2006, but I enjoyed the more laid back, older city sites and the beautiful, protected bay of Mahon and found it a pleasant contrast to Majorca’s modern tourist influences.

BARCELONA to ROME

As it turned out, I was unable to get off the ship both times when in port in Barcelona. On embarkation days (first day of each cruise) I often play as guests are arriving on the ship. The cruise back to Rome was by way of the French Riviera

Barcelona remains a favorite destination of passengers and crew alike. I was unable to visit Barcelona this time around but have good memories of seeing the city when on a land tour with my son, Patrick and other high school age travelers in 1993. I also spent time in Barcelona when my husband and I cruised around Spain in 2006.

St. Tropez, Cannes, Monaco
Oct. 24--26, 2010.

Yesterday a new group of guests boarded the ship in Barcelona for our second (of 6) seven night cruises and we will spend time on the French Riviera, including Monaco. Then down to Florence, Elba and back to Rome.

Sunday, Oct. 24, 2010, St. Tropez, France. This cool, Sunday autumn afternoon I took the 10 minute tender ride into St. Tropez. on the French Riviera. The beautiful harbor was decked with numerous expensive yachts and the narrow streets lined with motorcycles. In more recent decades St. Tropez has become a playground for the rich and famous. But walking through the streets, one is more impressed by the presence of the old buildings and the former, principal commercial port for France until the early 1900s. The port was destroyed in 1944 during W.W. II when. St. Tropez was the central sight of Operation Dragoon, a beach landing in the Allied invasion of southern France. The port was rebuilt after the war, but the city’s role as a commercial port declined and is now primarily a tourist spot.

Monday, Oct. 25, 2010, Cannes, France. Yesterday.s walk in St. Tropez was in pleasant autumn weather and a little breezy with warm sunshine. This early morning walking tour in Cannes was quite different---cold, windy and some light showers. The tour guide showed some interesting landmarks including the Vieux Port where fisherman work on brightly colored boats, .The Boulevard de la Croisette on the sea front is a well known promenade and follows the curves of the bay for about 5 miles and again seeing luxurious yachts. The walk up to old town, Haute Ville, was worth the effort. We were rewarded with a stunningly beautiful view of the city and bay. Some interesting history was also shared about the origins of the world famous Cannes film festival which takes place for 3 weeks every May. The weather cleared by afternoon and viewing the city from the ship at dusk was quite impressive.

Tuesday, Oct. 26, 2010, Monaco. I didn’t get off the ship until almost noon and explored Monaco on my own. I had taken a bus tour of Monaco and other parts of the French Riviera when on JOURNEY in 2009 and I recall a very short bus ride through this small principality. I learned this time around that Monaco is smaller than Central Park in Manhattan. Like the rest of the French Riviera the area is quite beautiful, perched above and viewed from the sea.

Livorno, Elba (Portoferraio), Sorento
OCTOBER 27--31, 2010

We had an extra overnight in Livorno, this attractive port city in the Tuscan region of Italy that follows the west coast to central parts near Pisa and Florence. Along with Marcio, the young DJ on the ship from Brazil, I took the 1 & 1/2 hour train ride into Florence and spent a wonderful day of sightseeing and photo shots. An added bonus was the bucolic scenery along the way and I recalled the shorter ride to Pisa a year ago. I could have easily spent 4 days rather than 4 hours at the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Bargello Museum and Piazza della Signoria, the largest square in the city, which features well-preserved remnants of Roman & medieval Florence. In additions to the wonderful sights I will remember the wonderful feel and ambience of Florence.

October 29, 2010, Elba (Portoferraio) Italy.  Portoferraio is the capitol and the main port of the island of Elba. As it looks today, it was built according to the will of Cosimo Medici who started extensive fortification work in 1548. Like all of the Mediterranean Islands/countries, Elba was ruled and influenced by many nationalities and cultures. After the end of the Napoleonic Era, it returned to Tuscany and became part of the Kingdom of Italy in 1860. I walked around town enjoying the return of warm autumn days and purchased a few items at the local supermarket. It was a relaxed day after yesterday’s visit to Florence.

Return to Sorrento Oct. 31, 2010. Back in Sorrento before leaving for Venice, the Dalmatian Coast and Greece. I was lucky to get to escort a ship tour down the Amalfi Coast (known here as The Divine Coast.) This is a dazzling, spectacular 50 kilometer drive through some beautiful mountainside towns. I rode with about 18 guests and an excellent tour guide and enjoyed lunch in the town of Amalfi, on this pleasant, autumn Sunday. When we left, the weather was calm. By the time we returned at 4 p.m. the sea was stirring up and the ship’s captain had decided we would head for Naples instead of staying in the extra rough waters around Sorrento. I did not get to Herculaneum but this beautiful coastal drive was a great way to end our stay in Sorrento and I look forward to tomorrow’s sea day.

When I said I looked forward to today’s day at sea, I wasn’t expecting this on-going turbulence and rolling waves. I managed not to get sea sick but felt very tired by the end of the day. The waters were so rough, we decided it would be too risky to put the harp up on 10th deck in the Aqualina restaurant where I was scheduled to play for a private brunch. By tea time at 3:30 the sea was a bit calmer and I decided the harp and I could withstand the roughness. I continued to play at my usual venue in Discoveries lounge that evening but the ship was several hours late leaving the Port of Naples as the local port authority placed restrictions on ships entering or leaving the port due to on-going rough weather. Stuck in Naples with thunder, lightening and torrential rains, we felt lucky to leave by 10 pm, some six hours after our scheduled departure.

We later learned from the captain later that the wind registered at a Force 11. One passenger learned that a Force 12 wind is categorized at hurricane level!

Kotor, Montenegro, Split
Nov. 3, 4, 2010.

Kotor, Montenegro Nov. 3, 2010. By the time we reached Kotor around 9 am this morning the sea was calm and this beautiful port town on the Adriatic literally sparkled. I had heard other crew members talk about the beauty of Montenegro but wasn’t prepared for the initial impact of its striking beauty. I joined another tour group, Highlights of Montenegro. We took a morning drive up the mountain, the southern most fjord in Europe. The constant and steep curves driving up the mountain along with the never-ending vistas down to the sea provided both excitement and a some scary moments! The curves were quite steep making the Amalfi coast seem serene. Two lady passengers on the tour later confided they literally thought the bus would go off the cliff when they could no longer see anything out the front window except the sea below. I had a moment or two of my heart beating in my throat as the driver quickly backed down the mountain to let another vehicle get around the bus.

We learned that Montenegro, which had been a part of Yugoslavia under communist rule, became an independent country in 2006. From the early ‘90s until 2006 it was part of the union with Serbia. Montenegro now uses the euro and recently became a part of the European Union.

In addition to the bus ride up the mountain, another highlight of the day was visiting the old palace of King Nikola, the country’s only king who ruled in the 1800’s. The economic stability of Montenegro is improving every year as more tourists discover the serene beauty of this area. The sparkling sea and beautiful autumn colors were even more highlighted on this warm, sunny autumn day. We ended the tour walking about Old Town, full of history and interesting shops. On my way back to the ship, I came across the post office and purchased postcards and stamps, quickly wrote notes and dropped in the box just before closing.

Split, Croatia, Nov. 4, 2010. After yesterday’s adventures in Montenegro, I walked around the port in Split, an attractive city of 410,000 people and the second largest in Croatia, situated on the eastern shores on the Adriatic Sea. In an effort to save some internet dollars, I decided to try out a local internet cafe. Due to language difficulties, I ended up paying much more for the internet services than I would have on the ship! I was offered a paperback book along with the purchase but couldn’t find one in English that interested me! (Note: A regular pastime for crew when in port is finding free internet! Sometimes we get lucky.)

The city and area are full of old ruins going back to 3rd century AD and the Old Town has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.

Venice, Padua, Nov. 5, 6, 7, 2010.  There is so much to say about Venice I don’t even know where to start. It was founded by Romans who went to the marsh areas to the northeast to get away from the Bavarians who were unable to access and maneuver the waterways. Venice is a old, delicate (increased floodings) and beautiful. (See Nov. 7th entry.)

Padua, Italy, Nov. 6, 2010.  Just a 40 minute drive west of Venice is the city of Padua (Paddova) home of the second oldest university (1222) in the world (the University in Bologna was founded in 1080.) Galileo taught physics in Padua for 18 years at the end of the 1500s before he was imprisoned by the Catholic church. Our tour guide did an exceptional job giving in-depth historic information about this exceptional city and a provincial capitol in the Veneto region. She was proud she attended the ceremony a few years back at the University here when Galileo was officially pardoned by the Catholic church and acknowledged for his scientific contributions.

We visited St. Anthony’s Basilica. Though St. Anthony was born in Portugal, he spend the last two years of his life in Padua where he died in 1235. It was in Padua he requested to be buried and his tomb is located in the Basilica. St. Anthony’s church is considered one of the great shrines of western Christendom.

Venice, Nov. 7, 2010.  Took a 1 hour boat ride through the canals of Venice and out to the Adriatic. Again I learned much history about this marvelous city and saw everything from Elton John’s house to the many churches, museums and reconstructed hotels. We learned Venice was built between the 5th and 7th centuries AD by Romans who wished to escape from Bavarians living in the Roman Empire. (The Romans could maneuver through the marshes/canals to escape the Bavarians.) And the gondolas became a perfected means of transportation between the islands to stay beyond the reach of the Bavarians.

In addition to gondolas, Venice is known for its glass makers on Murano (a group of 10 small islands) and its masks which were worn initially to hide one’s true identity and allow people of less means to mix with the wealthy class. In the past decades, rising water has been a serious problem in Venice and much study and effort is underway to remedy the problem. We saw the dykes being built at the edge of the Adriatic and learned that the most vulnerable area to flooding is at St. Mark’s Square near the Cathedral.

Zadar, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Nov. 9, 10, 2010.

Walked around Zadar on this cold, windy, rainy morning. The morsko orgel--sea organ-- had the same haunting sound Joe and I heard in 2008 when we visited here. It was placed at the port in memory of the Croatian soldiers from this area who lost their lives in the ‘90s in the unfortunate war with Serbia/Montenegro. I remember many of the churches and buildings in the old city. The area is one of my favorite on the Dalmatian coast with views of the the islands of Ugljan and Pasman.

Dubrovnik, Croatia, Nov. 9 & 10, 2010. The ship spent 2 days in Dubrovnik, a popular destination on the Dalmatian coast. Dubrovnik has a beautiful walled city dating back to the 7th century. Most parts of the old city, damaged when bombs were dropped there in the early ‘90s, have been repaired.

Joe and I saw Dubrovnik in 2008 as passengers on Silver Seas cruise ship and took a walking tour inside the walled city. Today I didn’t feel the need to go back, but enjoyed the 10 minute shuttle ride from our ship to the main part of the commercial town.

The newer town, positioned next to the fort seem to be guarded by the old fort walls. I purchased some post cards but was unable to purchase stamps as I only had euros with me. So I took a few pictures before riding the shuttle back to the ship.


Chania, Crete, Athens, Greece


Nov. 12, 13, 2010

Pretty town. I took a long walk around the half-moon shaped port and enjoyed the afternoon sun. Stopped at Starbucks and had a vanilla latte, which reminded me of home. Had hoped to access the free internet‚ service but was unable to get connected with the local service so gave my card (free with coffee purchase) to someone. Found a very good bookstore and purchased 3 paperbacks to read on ship, about local history.

Didn’t take an official tour‚ but saw the Egyptian Lighthouse originally built in 1570 and Venetian docks dating back to the late 1500‚s.

Athens, Greece, Nov. 13, 2010.  Another embarkation day and I play at the grand staircase from noon ‘til 3pm as a new group of guests come on the ship. This will be my 3rd time in Athens (in ‘09 and ‘10) when I have been unable to get off ship long enough to really see the sights. Maybe on Nov. 27th when we return here for the last time before leaving the Mediterranean! Two more 7 night cruises in Greece and Turkey before going through the Suez Canal from Alexandria.

Stay tuned!

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Kusadasi/Ephesus, Turkey
Nov. 14 & 15, 2010

Kusadasi is an attractive city on the Aegean. The name means "Bird Island" (there's a small island connected by a long walkway next to the town, which has grown from a small fishing village into a large community dedicated to serving tourists who are in the area to visit the Ephesus ruins and/or attractive beaches.

Ephesus, first re-discovered in the1860s, is a huge archaeological excavation that equals Pompeii in its many preserved sites. To date, only about 10% of this ancient Roman city, which had a population of 250,000 during its heyday (from second Century BC through third century AD), has been uncovered. The bay, once positioned between Ephesus and the Aegean Sea, has dried up. The Arcadian Way, a ceremonial road first built during the Hellenistic Age can still be seen where, allegedly, Cleopatra and Marc Anthony rode in ceremonies. Ephesus was a thriving port city and some impressive sites include the Artemis Temple, St. John Church, Agoras, the Theatre, the Marble Road, the Harbor Road, Hadria's Temple and the Celsus Library.  St. John spent time in Ephesus and between 54 & 57 AD, St. Paul preached at the theatre which held 24,000 people. The Virgin Mary Church was the site of the first Christian Council meeting devoted to the role of Mary in Christianity. The House of Virgin Mary located at the end of the road from the Magnesia Gate is the house where Mary is believed to have lived until her death.

A very enjoyable tour through the ruins today. The forecast for rain did not occur, the November climate was mild and the crowds were smaller compared to summer's seasonal tourists.

Chios, Greece
Nov. 16, 2010

I didn't get off the ship today because I had port manning duty. I had been to Chios, just a few miles off the coast of Turkey in the Aegean Sea, last year two times when on JOURNEY. Chios is very pretty and I had enjoyed walking along the port and finding a free internet café. (Crew members are always happy when we find free internet and are happy to purchase a cup of tea or coffee at the café.)

In the afternoon I played at 3:30 tea on 10th deck in the Aqualina restaurant and the view of Chios was stunning. The town was larger than I remembered and the afternoon autumn sun cast magical light and shadows as the ship pulled away from Chios. I thought about rushing down to my cabin to fetch my camera but realized we would be too far away by the time I returned, so I keep this stunning image of Chios in my mind's eye. The Island is full of beautiful beaches, villages and monasteries. It is steeped in 3000 years of history, and claims to be the birthplace of Homer the poet (I was told Homer was from Smyrna when on a tour to Ephesus

Volvos, Greece
Nov. 17, 2010

Volos is Greece's second largest city and lively port tucked into the base of the Pelion Peninsula. The city‚s roots date back to BC cities of Lolkos, Pagasae & Demitrias. By the 14th Century AD, those towns had vanished and replaced by one city dubbed "Golos", and 400 years later became Volvos and was incorporated into the Ottoman Empire. Greece took over the town in the1880s and for the next half century Volvos thrived thanks to trade by merchants, seafarers and craftsmen. In the mid 1950s Volos came to a near standstill due to a series of devastating earthquakes that destroyed much of its neoclassical architecture and crippled its business community. Thanks to its strategic geographical location this tough port town rebounded and today remains a major political and economic player in Greece and Europe.

I didn't go on an organized tour, but crew members said the frescoes, wood carvings, wall paintings and icons in the four remaining Monasteries carved out among the caves and cliffs of Meteora are well worth seeing. Among Volos‚ most well known citizens are artist Giorgio de Chirico and new age musician, Vangelis, in case anyone is interested.

Sea Day--The Dardanelles
Nov. 18th

I don't usually write about sea days but this one was special. We passed many scenic islands and saw a number of beautiful monasteries along the way to Istanbul. One highlight came during the afternoon tea. It was magic, with a straight ahead view of the beautiful Monasteries and hearing bits of history from the bridge. Another was at dusk as we navigated through the Dardanelles, a narrow passage connecting the Aegean to the Sea of Marmara, at places no more than 1mile mile wide.

Istanbul, Turkey
Nov. 19th & 20th

Founded six centuries BC as Byzantium, re-founded in 330 AD as Constantinople and conquered by the Ottomans in 1453, Istanbul was the great European imperial capital for almost 16 centuries. In this old city you can walk the streets where crusaders and janissaries once marched, admire mosques which are the most sublime architectural expressions of Islamic piety, visit sultan's palaces and shop for bargains in some of the 4000 shops at the Grand Bazaar.

Istanbul is the only city on earth which is located on two continents. The Bosphorus, the Strait that connects the Black Sea and the Seas of Marmara separates the Continents. The Bosphorus Bridge is the fourth longest in the world and was completed in 1973. This was the first physical link over the strait to connect Europe and Asia.

A few of the highlights I was able to see during our two day stay in Istanbul were The Blue Mosque (known to architects as one of the great marvels of the world,) The Hippodrome (ancient Roman Stadium,) Basilica Cistern (actually an underground palace reservoir supported by 336 beautiful columns) and Hagia Sophia Museum originally built during 532 to 537 as and then converted into a mosque in 1453 and then into a museum in 1932. Simply beautiful.

Istanbul had an upbeat atmosphere, was friendly and in some ways reminded me of San Francisco with the hills surrounding the bay & beautiful neighborhoods. Two days was not long enough! The city's Grand Bazaar, one of the most famous markets in the world, houses over 4000 shops. This covered market was constructed shortly after the Conquest of Constantinople.

After Istanbul and another sea day back through the Dardanelles, we returned to Kusadasi/Ephesus with a new cruise group. I revisited Ephesus, this time on a crew tour, and continued to see & learn more about this ancient city. On our way back to Athens, we also stopped in Bodrum, Turkey, a port town in the southwestern Aegean region. The history dates back to the 13th Century BC and many civilizations found their home here. Heredotus, known as the Father of history‚ was born in Bodrum in 484 BC.

Until the mid-20th Century, Bodrum was a quiet town. It became popular among Turkey's educated classes by a group of intellectuals centered around the writer Cevat Sakir Kabaagacli, who came here in exile. Since then, Bodrum is the home to many poets and artists as well a commercially minded investors.

Rhodes, Greece
Nov. 25th & 26th

I visited Rhodes last year and loved returning to this beautiful, stately island. It remains my favorite of the Greek Islands I have visited. The island's location is at a crossroads between Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Its position, amidst major sea routes, has given Rhodes a very rich history, as well as many different identities, cultures, architectures and languages. The island has been inhabited since about 400 BC.

The Knights St. John were a huge influence to the island. They left imposing evidence of their presence and gave the particular character it retains to this day, with its impregnable walls, gates, churches hospitals inns and palaces. Their stay in Rhodes lasted 213 years, until 1522. Eventually the Knights of St John would be known as the Knights of Malta. They were originally in Jerusalem, then Cyprus before moving on to Rhodes & Malta. In addition to fighting battles they built hospitals.

At the end of WW II, Rhodes, together with the other islands of the Dodecanese, was incorporated within Greece. On Match 7, 1948 the Greek flag was finally raised over the Governor's Palace.

I wrote this poem last year after my first visit to Rhodes.

STATELY RHODES
Stand upright and cast glances toward the ancient hills,
And protect all you have gathered into you fold.
Protect and absorb and, yes, the Knights.

Let your ancient walls and forts forever stand,
grounded in your many truths.
You know who your are in history and in life.

Show your ancient beauty to the world and be proud!

---by Amy

(oh well, I tried.)

Rhodes reminded me of Malta, another favorite place. Both were and continue to be heavily influenced by the influence of the Knights of St. John. I felt at home in both places.

Athens, Greece
11/27/10

The 7 night cruise from Istanbul to Athens reached its destination on Sat. 11/27 and I finally saw the Acropolis!  I wasn't disappointed either. Athens is a beautiful city, especially viewing the surrounding hills around this ancient site. Remains of the Parthenon set at the top of the hill along with other ancient, notable temples. Truly impressive! Our tour guide commented it had been a perfect late autumn day, much more enjoyable than the larger crowds and summer heat.

I will only state a few facts here as you already know much about Athens. It‚s one of the world's oldest cities, and its recorded history spans at least 3000 years. Classical Athens was a powerful city-state. A center for the arts, learning and philosophy, home of Plato's Academy and Aritotle's Lyceum and the birthplace of many other prominent philosophers, writers and politicians of the ancient world. The gifts of the gods are what make Athens special in Greek history. The goddess, Athena gave the city an olive tree as a token of her protection of the city and the god Dionyssos gave the vine tree. These, along with many myths and traditions, have been proven by archeological findings, or so says the "Daily Pursuits!"

Nov. 27, 2010
14 days from Athens to Dubai

Sea Day
Nov. 28th

I was quarantined to my room for 24 hours supposedly for the norovirus. Quick onset; quick recovery & a day off from work. I watched movies & slept between jaunts to you know where!

Alexandria
Nov. 29, 2010

I saw some of Alexandria on an informal walking tour last year when on JOURNEY.  I'm glad I saw the new library and remnants of the old lighthouse in the sea then, as I couldn't leave ship today.  Again, had port manning.

Very little of the ancient city has survived into present day. Much of the royal and civic quarters sank beneath the harbor due to earthquake subsidence and the rest has been rebuilt upon in modern times. The city was revived by Muhammad Ali as part of his early industrialization program in the early 1800s.

But many museums house remnants of this city's great past. Remaining landmarks of interest include but not limited to: Abu Abbas al-Mursi Mosque, Caesareum, the remains of a rather splendid temple and full of information about Alexander the Great, and Alexander's Roman amphitheatre, the only Roman theater left in the entire country of Egypt. In addition, the new library of Alexandria, the National Museum of Alexandria, Museum of Fine Arts and Planetarium Science Center

Had I been able, I would have returned to the Pyramids of Giza, which I saw a year ago. I would have taken the crew tour again, this time on Quest.. Instead, I spent the day writing up some of my travelogue! I recall the Great Pyramids of Giza along with the long, dusty ride from and back to Port Said and then getting back to the ship just in time to play three sets!

Last year, another highlight in the Mediterranean was my two visits to Israel. I was in awe of the city of Jerusalem on an excellent crew tour, and very much enjoyed Haifa, which I explored on my own.

Tomorrow starts 8 straight sea days, including cruising through the Suez Canal on Dec. 1st.. We're all gearing up to keep the guests entertained, though many of them come on long sea day cruises to read, contemplate and just relax and don't need to be entertained. Last year I found the sea days quite enjoyable when crossing the Atlantic. It will be nice to take a break from almost daily port visits, which can get a bit overwhelming at times, not that I'm complaining!

In summary, returning to the Mediterranean was a great way to put much of last years travel experiences into perspective and to learn a little more about some of the destinations a little more in depth. But it would take years of serious study and more visits to fully appreciate all that I've seen and experienced. I am very lucky, indeed. to have had this opportunity to visit this great hub of Western Civilization!

Headed to Asia!

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Suez Canal Passage
Dec. 1, 2010

Everyone was up for our cruise through the canal. We left Port Said last evening just before dusk and enjoyed the sun setting behind the mosques and city skyline, a romantic view of Egypt. The ship anchored several hours and waited for clearance to transit into the canal.

The Suez Canal, an artificial waterway running north to south across the Isthmus of Suez in northern Egypt, connects the Mediterranean Sea with the Gulf of Suez, an arm of the Red Sea, providing a short cut for ships operating between Europe and southern Asia, eastern Africa and Oceania. The canal is 101 miles long and can accommodate ships as large a 150,000 dead weight tons fully loaded. No locks are needed because the Mediterranean sea and the gulf of Suez have roughly the same water levels.

The first canal between the Nile River delta and the Red Sea was excavated around 13th Century BC! For long periods of time during the next few centuries the canal was neglected, but several rulers at various times had it re-excavated or modified. It was in 1858 the Universal Company of the Maritime Suez Canal (La Campagne Universelle du Canal Maritime de Suez) was formed with the authority to cut a canal and operate it for 99 years, after which the ownership would return to the Egyptian government. Excavation on the canal began the following year and it was open to navigation November 17, 1869. Under the terms of the international convention signed in 1888, the canal became available to vessels of all nations without discrimination , in peace and in war. However, it would prove to be the center of conflict for decades between nations, including Britain, Egypt and Israel.

The canal continued to figure prominently in the conflicts between Egypt and Israel during the 1960s and 70s and was closed in 1967 during the Six-Day War when several vessels were sunk blocking the shipping lanes, but was re-opened in 1975 after an international task force had cleared it of explosives and other obstacles. Unrestricted Israeli use of the canal was secured in the peace treaty with Egypt in 1979. At present, over 1800 vessels pass through the canal each year carrying 7.5% of the world‚s sea trade. Cruise ships consist of less than 1 % of canal traffic.

The above is just a small portion of information complied from the "Daily Pursuits"‚ and the excellent enrichment lectures given by Chuck Richardson from the U.S. A number of lectures pertaining to this part of the world, including The Red Sea, Somalia, etc. has informed and enriched many of us on the ship.

SEA DAYS

This is a good time to write about sea days as we're having a total of nine in the 12 night cruise from Athens to Dubai. Most crew have extra duties on sea days. For me it's the daily "Elegant Tea"‚ from 3:30 to 4:30. I find the extra duty more a pleasure than work and the ritual & serene setting a welcome diversion from what could turn into too many long, unstructured hours. Guests don't mind dressing up a bit, taking a break from the sun deck or from other ship (in)activities to take in this time honored ritual. Just the thought of teatime puts me in a dreamy mood. That along with the harp playing inspired the following poem.

TEATIME

When the day is good or when steeped in despair,
A good cup of tea Is my soul‚s repair.
I dare not haste I slow my pace,
Sip in the comfort And savor the taste.
(Nov., 2010)

The hardest thing about teatime is not succumbing to the temptation to grab one of those delicious scones with jam and cream after the guests leave!

In addition to playing three private events per cruse + the regular evenings in Discoveries Lounge or the Mosasic café, I've started a presentation one sea day per cruise on the "History of the Harp". Thirty-one attended the first presentation. This is a good topic to attract guests, and crew alike, as the harp remains a topic of curiosity and interest for many people and I'm continuing to work on interesting visuals to add to my collection of images of harps from many cultures throughout the ages.

GULF OF ADEN---pirate country---

Today is Dec. 6. We just completed passage through the Gulf of Aden and the ship is no longer on security alert. For 2 days a boat run by a private company was hired to stay with the ship as an extra security measure. The guests and crew were briefed at the beginning of our cruise & we ran through a safety drill where everyone had to go to the middle of the ship in a public area. For most of 3 evenings most outside lights were turned off and curtains pulled to not attract attention.

Ship Captain, Leif Karlsson, had earlier explained the likelihood of pirates trying to come on a cruise ship is remote but one or two attempts have been known to happen. Cargo ships which sit lower in the water with valuable cargo and few people are more likely to be targets. More and more sophisticated attempts have been successful as pirates acquire money and the ability to utilize the internet and modern technology.

Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Dec. 8 & 9, 2010

Approaching Dubai, I was reminded of Manhattan on a flat desert. Dubai is a landmark for innovation; a city where expansion has no limits. The city boasts remarkable skyscrapers, such as the world‚s tallest building, the Burj Dubai‚ and is also in the process of developing one of the most technologically advanced buildings in the world---The Pad. This is based on the idea of an ipod; the residential tower is set to be embedded with the latest gadgets that will have the power to change interior design and window views to almost anything imaginable.

Walking around Dubai with ship's Destination lecturer, Chuck and his wife, Helga, I felt we could be in any large, cosmopolitan city in the states. The city is very clean and upbeat whether in the modern part or the old town. It is one of the most multicultural cities in the world with the population consisting mainly in an expatriate community and with less than 10% of the total being national Emiraes.

The state of Dubai is commonly referred to as a city because it has been distinguished as the most modern and cosmopolitan environment in the Emirates. Dubai gains higher returns from its tourism, as revenue from oil only accounts for around 6% of its gross domestic product. Oil is decreasing by the year and cannot be depended upon. That is partly the reason for a construction boom in order to diversify its economy with the expansion of commercial and corporate activity.

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Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010
From: harpmusic@redshift.com
To: BruceCBelknap@redshift.com

Bruce,

In Ho Chi Minh City today.  Pretty French colonial bldgs and lots
of air pollution.  The locals still call it Siagon.

Will send more after about two weeks. Need a little rest from writing.

Amy

====================

Dubai to Singapore---12 night cruise
Dec. 9 thru 21, 2010

This 12 night cruise also included a lot of sea days. Even though we were through the Gulf of Aden, which is considered the most dangerous and high risk waters for pirate activity, we became aware pirate activity has continued to expanded into broader territory and some security measures were in place until we passed India and Sri Lanka. We continued to enjoy smooth seas, warm breezy days and the night sky was always bright and stunning. Traveling south and east we set our clocks forward in one hour or half hour increments and were advised to get plenty of rest during these time changes. Later the captain informed us a cargo ship had been confiscated back in the Gulf and a second one barely escaped pirate captivity.

Mumbai (Bombay) India
Dec. 12 & 13, 2010.,

Mumbai, formerly Bombay, lies on the west coast of India and is the most populated city in the world with 14 million people and up to 20 million population when combined with neighboring suburbs. The Daily Pursuits gives the following information.

Mumbai is India's finance canter, the economic powerhouse of the nation, heart of the Hindi film industry and the industrial hub of everything from textiles to petrochemicals. It is the glamour of Bollywood, cinema, cricket on the "maidans" (open grassed areas,) outstanding colonial architecture and red double-decker buses.

To tell the complete story of Bombay to present day Mumbai (since 1996) would take volumes and I won't even attempt to share my limited information. A four hour bus tour of the city is insufficient to capture or appreciate this interesting and complex metropolis. Viewed from the bus was squabble, ordered trash, storied shacks and many peopled neighborhoods among beautiful parks, stunning colonial buildings, stately private schools and university cricket games played on vast expanses of grass.

Perhaps only in India can these extremes co-exist, seemingly harmoniously. Even the poverty and trash seem ordered. We were there on a Sunday afternoon and the streets were relatively empty of the usual traffic and human congestion. The end of our tour was a visit and lunch snack at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, the site of the 2008 terrorist attack. It is quite beautiful and we enjoyed a small lunch before returning to the ship.

While boarding the bus, I caught sight of a small girl, perhaps 6 or 7 years old, carefully holding a small child, perhaps a year to 18 months old. Both appeared under-nourished so it was difficult to know their exact ages. The child's head tilted heavily on the girl's right shoulder, its fragile body, tattered and worn, and was about one third the size of the girl. It appeared as if the child has been stapled to the girl's body her entire life and would always be carried by the older beggar. I will never know if the few folded U.S. dollars I handed the beggar will give them sustenance or to whom she will hand over the money. Her image is forever etched in my mind; her fate and life, forever ordered by her birth.

BEGGAR CHILD

Life is never easy for you, little one,
But you stay true to the child given to your care, I am sad for the little lost girl you are.

You care for the attached child with grace and dignity. You, too, are precious,
Precious beyond words.

Kochi (Cochin), India
Dec. 15, 2010

A number of guests opted to fly north for a two day visit to the Taj Mahal, getting off the ship in Mumbai and re-embarking in Kochi. But most guests remained on the ship and visited this tropical city with beautiful beaches and palm trees. Kochi (Colonial name Cochin) lies on the southwest coast of the Indian Peninsula. Like Mumbai, it has a long and distinguished history and is a principal seaport city. Throughout time the Arabs, British, Chinese, Dutch and Portuguese have left indelible marks on the history and development of Kochi. Kochi was the first princely state to willingly join the Indian Union when India gained independence in 1947. This city has a diverse religious and multicultural population who live in peaceful co-existence.

I was assigned in port manning and unable to get off the ship. The guests and crew members who did get out and about enjoyed seeing some of the rural areas surrounding the city. A favorite tour was to the back waters of Alappuzha, where the inland sea meets numerous rivers.

Phuket, Thailand
Dec. 19, 2010

Sunshine Village Orphanage was the site of the ship's Christmas charity donation this year. Started by the French Red Cross for victims of the 2004 tsunami, about 30 crew, including Captain Karlsson, and 15 guests visited the orphanage. We distributed age & gender appropriate gifts and additionally, donated $4000 in cash. It was a very moving experience. The children up to age 18, were beautiful, well-behaved, and very grateful for the gifts and Santa's visit. Their Tthank You song brought tears to our eyes. The guests on this 12 day cruise added significantly to the total $$ contribution.

Had I not gone to the orphanage, I would have gone on the crew tour to ride the elephants. Perhaps somewhere else in Thailand, as I won't be on the ship when Quests revisits Phuket. By the way, Phuket is an Island just off the west coast of Thailand with a population of 75,000. On December 26, 2004 the world watched in horror as Phuket was ravaged by tsunamis from the Indian Ocean earthquake. Six years later, Phuket's pristine beaches, bustling capital city and booming tourism industry are once again thriving.

Singapore, Singapore
Dec. 21, 2010

This City State Nation, described by one tour guide as the busiest port in the world‚ is located just north of the equator. The island, just off the southern tip of Malaysia, is 31 miles long and 14 wide. The population is 5 million (yes 5 million,) with very little open spaces left aside from the beautiful botanical gardens. The humidity is around 90+ percent, the average temperature around 90+ degrees and the average yearly rainfall 90+ inches. Singapore is beautiful with a mixture of Colonial architecture alongside modern high-rises.

During the 11th Century, this small island earned a new name, Singa Pura, (Lion City.) According to legend, a visiting Sri Vijayan prince saw an animal he mistook for a lion (there are no lions in the region except maybe in the zoo, although I'm not sure there is a zoo!) During the 18th Century, the British saw the need for a strategic "halfway house" to refit, feed and protect the fleet of their growing Empire. It was against this political backdrop that Sir Stamford Raffles established Singapore as a trading station. The policy of free trade attracted merchants from all over Asia and as far away as the U.S. and the Middle East..

By 1918 this Island was Britain's chief Naval Base in East Asia. In 1924 this swampland island, unappreciated for its location, was deeded to English East China Co. by a Sultan. By 1959, Singapore joined the Federation of Malaysia but became an independent state in 1965 when it separated from the Federation. During the fall of Singapore, Japanese troops defeated 90,000 British, Australian and Indian troops and Singapore was under Japanese occupation from 1942--45.

The island is clean, orderly and safe and known for its strict laws. The fine for first time littering is $300! I saw much of Singapore on a tour, including the orchid gardens (a portion of the botanical gardens) and the Emerlion‚ statue by the water. I look forward to re-visiting Singapore, particularly Merlion Park and Raffles Hotel, when in port.

Dec. 24th and 25th
We were at sea on Christmas Eve day.

Holiday buffets were displayed in the restaurants and in the Mosaic Café for lunch and guests could choose various buffets or dinners for each day. The displays were beautiful and the food fit for a king. This is a good time to recognize the food and beverage folks for their hard work & exceptional service. The chefs, waiters and sommeliers are the best in their line of work. And, yes, the food on AZAMARA is the best on the high seas!

On Christmas Eve the entertainment staff staged a grand holiday party. The cabaret stage was decorated as anyone's living room. In addition to the cast and orchestra, who regularly perform on stage, the rest of the musicians also performed. These included Polish guitarist/singer, Frank, who now lives in Finland, Jeff, pianist/singer from Canada and Moondance Duo, Marie, singer from Australia and Johan, pianist from Colombia. And the harpist! The harp was set up next to the piano. In addition to playing a solo piece, I shared the following poem written by California poet, Robinson Jeffers, in 1940.

ONLY AN HOUR

For an hour on Christmas Eve
And again on the Holy Day,
Seek the magic of past time,
From this present turn away.

Dark though our day,
Light is the snow on the hawthorn bush
And the ox knelt down at midnight.

Midnight Mass was later held and we arrived in Bangkok on Christmas morning. Christmas lunch and dinner were served for guests who stayed on or returned to ship. I stayed on the ship today and rested. Saw POLAR EXPRESS for the first time and spent time with Bing Crosby, Danny Kaye & Rosemary Clooney while I watched WHITE CHRISTMAS. I had to wait until 8 am on Dec. 26th to call my family in California at 5 pm on Christmas day! It was a lonely time hearing about Christmas dinner and opening presents by the fireplace and Christmas tree from half way around the world.

This 18 night Christmas cruise from Singapore to Hong Kong is the only one this lengthy and the only cruise to include Cambodia.. The rest will be 14 night cruises back and forth between Singapore and Hong Kong for the next two months and also includes ports in Thailand and Vietnam.

I will check in from time to time and give information on interesting places but not necessarily in chronological order.

Starting early March we head north to mainland China, then to Japan and South Korea for two 12 night cruises. When we return to Singapore in early April, I am scheduled to disembark and the ship will reposition to head back through the Suez Canal and 6 months in the Mediterranean and other parts of Europe.

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